FAQ’s about the skinner knives:

1. Why would I want a flint knife?  It’s sharper than steel, performs better, keeps a sharp edge almost indefinitely, and looks cool.
2. Seriously? Sharper than steel?  Yep, like glass.  Flint breaks much like glass and the cutting edge is actually a fracture, not grounded like steel edges are.
3. How well does it hold an edge?  Indefinitely when used only on soft tissue.  Like steel, if it’s used on bone, wood, etc. it will get dull, but it does hold an edge much better than steel.  Use it properly and you will never have to re-sharpen!
4. What animals will a flint knife skin?  ALL animals, even wild hogs which are about as tough as they get.  Imagine cutting up a whole hog without resharpening!  Hog hunters would appreciate that advantage tremendously.  I have knives sized for any game. 
5. Do you guarantee your knives?  Yes.  Free repairs forever... as long as it is repairable.  Broken or spent blades should be replaced at a cost of $14-17 per inch (cost depends on the type of flint).  Broken tips and nicks on the edge can normally be repaired.  Resharpening dulled blades is included in the guarantee as well as a handle that becomes loose.
6. What if I don’t like the knife I bought?  Simply send it back for an exchange or refund, but if you want something that fits you better then tell me and I'll custom-make one for exchange.
7. What are the blades made of?  I use flints, agates, cherts, obsidians, and jaspers.  Almost anything that makes a conchoidal fracture (breaks like glass) can be used.  My knives are primarily made of flints found in central Texas.
8. Are some flints sharper or more durable than others?  Not noticeably among different flints but obsidian (volcanic glass) is a little sharper at the expense of being more brittle, therefore expect obsidian blades to be a little thicker than flint blades.
9. How do you make the blade?  Too much detail to explain here so go to the “How To” article at the back end of my website (coming soon).
10. Can it break? Yes.  Think of it like a ceramic tile or plate.  I make my knives a little thick for that reason, but still, try not twist or pry with it.  Shorter blades are less likely to break than the longer ones.  If you prefer a monster blade then keep that in mind.  Most of my skinner blades are kept to a minimal length to keep them stronger, otherwise I have to compensate with a greater thickness.
11. What if I break it?  Buy a replacement blade at $10-$13 per inch (depending on the blade material) and I’ll mount it on the original handle for no additional charge.
12. How do I re-sharpen a dulled blade?  Either learn pressure-flaking, or better yet, send it to me for a FREE re-sharpening/reconditioning.  It's a simple and quick process.
13. How often would it need to be re-sharpened?  If all you do is skin with it then perhaps never.  If you use the heck out of it then it will take many re-sharpenings before it’s time to replace the blade.
14. Why are some blades different styles?  Each is hand-crafted and I try to have some diversity for my customers.  These knives are not mass produced from machines so each is unique.  One particular style prevails that I claim as my own creation which is described in the next comment.
15. Which blade style is the best?  The most popular and preferred by hunters is a blade that has a generous radius on the leading cutting edge; a dulled thumb-rest on the top edge; as an option a pointed tip helps to get the cutting started in tight places of a hide (running up the legs of a deer for example).  Pointed tips tend to break off so I avoid them.  See my VIDEO and examine how the knives are being used with each feature being utilized.
16. What size do I need?  2” to 3” of exposed blade length suits most, but it’s really a matter of preference (or perhaps ‘vanity’ if you want a really big knife).  You really don’t gain much with a monstrously large knife… but they ARE impressive!  If you want an average size knife for most skinning then ask for a 4" blade.  After hafting to the handle the exposed cutting edge will be around 3".
17. What is the handle made of?  I mostly use mule deer antler.  They are straighter than white-tail deer and have bumps for added ‘character’ and a better grip in the slimy conditions of skinning.
18. How do you attach the handles?  Will it hold?  Artificial sinew is wrapped and embedded in two-part epoxy.  It's the epoxy that holds the blade.  The wrapping is mostly to dress it up.  The blade will probably break before the glue lets go.  But then again, it's guaranteed so don't worry about that.
19. I don’t see a knife quite exactly what I want, do you make custom orders?  Yes.  Contact me with your specifications.
20. How long does it take to make a custom knife?  Loaded question.  I make the knives in my free time (I have a "real" job elsewhere) so please ask me and see if I have the time to make your custom order.  I give myself some flexibility and request 2 to 4 months.  Maybe sooner if there's nothing going on at home.  Contact me, but whatever the date that I tell you, I hold to it.
21. How do you arrive at the price for your knives?  Depending on the blade material I charge $14-$17 per inch plus $35 for the handle.
22. Will you make the handle from an antler that I provide to you?  Yes, but it won't make the price any cheaper.
23. Can I see the commissioned knife before I buy it?  Yes!  After a commissioned knife is ready I will send photos for you to decide if it's to your expectations.  The same goes with all of the knives that I sell.. you don't buy anything you don't get to see first.  Even after you receive it you can return it for a refund or exchange.  And that's not all!  The first oportunity you actually use the knife and you are not happy with the performance it can be returned for an exchange... even if it's years after it was bought.
24. I want a flint knife to use in pagan rituals.  Deal?  I get these customers periodically.  Without apology, absolutely NO!  I do not desire anything that I make to be used to glorify Satan or any pagan deities.  If it's not for God then it is demonic.  Read this:  "The Greatest Point Ever Made" (CLICK HERE).

FAQ’s about the accessories:

1. Does a sheath come with each knife?  Yes, but if you don't want one subtract $35. 
2. Do I really need a sheath?  If you use your knife in the field then you really need one.  A sheath will protect it, keep you from losing it, and the knife will be handy when you need it.  A flint knife not sheathed is going to get damaged over time.
3. What’s so special about your sheaths?  Simplicity at it’s best.  One piece of leather with no stitching to come apart. 
4. Do you guarantee your sheaths too?  Yep.

FAQ’s about payment and shipping:

1. I want to buy a knife.  Now what?  Email and tell me what you want and how you plan to pay for it.  I’ll take it from there.
2. Do you deliver to overseas destinations?  No, unless it’s an APO address to our military.
3. What about Canadian orders?  I love to take Canadian orders.  They are mailed first class and a charge of $16.
4. Do you take credit cards?  Yes and no.  Transactions made in person can be made with a card.  I won't do it over the phone since I cannot verify your identity.
5. What are your preferred methods of payment?  PayPal and postal money orders.
6. Do you take personal checks?  Yes, but if your bank does not have a branch in my neighborhood you’ll have to wait for the check to clear before you order is mailed. 
7. What method of delivery do you use?  USPS first class or Priority Mail with about a 3 day delivery.  A S&H charge of $8 for US orders.
8. When would I expect it to be delivered?  I drop it off at the post office usually the next day after payment has arrived or cleared the bank.
9. Can you mail it to someone else and not to me?  Yep.
10. How big a package should I expect?  Normally a medium size Priority Mail package with paper packing material.
11. Can I have more than one knife included on the same shipping costs?  Multiple orders are $12 in the US and $20 for Canada..
12. Will you hold an order for me before payment arrives?  Yep.
13. Do you get postal insurance on knives being shipped?  Only if you want it and pay for it. 
14. What if it doesn’t arrive?  Although this has never happened to me, I can’t guarantee the postal delivery and will send you the postal receipt to prove it was sent. 
15. What if it breaks during shipment?  I’ll refund or replace.
16. Can I pick up my order to avoid the shipping costs?  No problem. 

Other FAQ’s:

1. How long have you been doing this?  I began to learn in 2001.
2. Will you teach me flint knapping?  Yes but you have to convince me that you will stick with the practice.  Too many only want to satisfy a passing whim and use my time to do it.  I only invest my time with the truly committed.  If you live in my zip code (77379) and sincerely want to learn I’ll gladly teach you.  Otherwise, your best bet is to seek a knap-in for superb teaching from many willing individuals within the timeframe of a weekend gathering.  KNAPIN LINK
3. I don’t want to purchase online.  Can I come over to get one?  Sure, I live in Spring, Texas, which is just north of Houston.  Contact me by email first and I'll give you more contact info.  knivesofflint@yahoo.com 
4. How long does it take to make a knife?  My average blade is 1.5 hours.  That's from the bare rock beginning to the finished blade.  The total knife with sheath is about 3 to 4 hours.  There are "hidden" time that's not included, such as travel and time collecting rocks, heat-treating rocks, machine maintenance, peddling at shows and festivals, customer communications and photos, and website maintenance.  It's a busy hobby but I love it.
5. Who are you?   I'm Stacy Reeves (yes, I'm a guy) and nobody special... except to my wife since 1976.  My paying trade is that of piping designer, who is someone who designs and draws the complicated network of pipe in a refinery.  I'm a born-again believer of Jesus the Christ, the Savior of the world.  I have 3 married children, nine grandbabies, and four dogs.  So until we are friends that's about all you need to know.